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Unknown Crack - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock
Trad
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Crack to the right of Barfing Butterflies. Bail at the collection of old slings, or continue up through the roof crack system.

Submitted by: boss on 2005-11-14
Views: 1041
Route ID: 59372

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: brinosaur on 2011-07-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Bring a rack to summersville!

Ought to be a super classic, but it seems most people lower from the end of the first crack.
The full route continues past the fixed nut anchors to an offwidth section and through yet another roof. There is perfect, easy gear throughout with a slight runout during the offwidth -- there is a good, albeit hidden, #3 deep at the top before the second roof.

Added: 2011-07-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice little line.

I stopped at the slings. Didn't realize there was a way to continue up till I was already down, but no matter. Nice short bit of jamming action through the actual crack and very easy climbing up to the crack. Takes gear surprisingly well, even in the chossy-looking bottom area. Slings were sort of scary though... two points of contact - one BOMBER old nut and one stopper sticking about halfway out of the rock (although it seems pretty well stuck there). Who the hell thought that looked like a good anchor point? Single length of webbing and a single non-locking carabiner.

Short route the way I did it - the 60 feet listed in the Williams guide must be all the way to the top.


Added: 2010-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dew4theq on 2000-03-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars It's good!

This is a nice trad line. Protection is great on it (down low). The upper chimney doesn't protect well, unless you have some REALLY BIG CAMS or small cams with 4 foot runners. I was stuck up in the chimney for a long time trying to figure it out. Eventually I did. Follow a thin seam of crimpers to the right and head out to the arete, you get a HUGE hold when you get there. Then you can plug a cam right in the roof.

Added: 2008-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: orlitz on 2005-11-15 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2005-11-15

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: boss on 2004-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Took an unexpected 20' whipper on some polished rock.

Added: 2004-08-17