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The MacCauley-Rose Route* - 5.10a

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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J. Young, G. Kistler
Rock (Trad) (DWS)
G
2
All natural. Bring a standard rack, plus ( for the second pitch) a couple 4" cams and three or four huge (5"-6") cams.
150
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Few will climb the MacCauley-Rose, because of all the big gear needed, but I really recommend you do. The whole route, with its long traverses, big cams, hanging belay and long free-rappel descent, lend it an adventurous feel you don't find often in this area. Beg, borrow or steal the gear and just do it. You won't be sorry. Alternatively, the entire second pitch also makes a great water solo in the summer, if you dare the fines.

P1: Climb Charlotte Corner past the roof, but instead of continuing straight up to the anchor, gain the first horizontal and hand traverse due left. Round the arete and build a hanging belay in the corner under the last bolt of Logos. A #4 Camalot or similar gear is useful for the anchor. You can also incorporate the Logos bolt. (5.10a, 50')

P2: Bring at least three very large cams -- like BD #5-6 large. A couple 3s and a 4 will also come in handy. Continue due left along the horizontal until you're under a very small right-facing corner. From there head up and left to the long wide horizontal that runs under the entire length of a long roof. Traverse, traverse and traverse some more on impeccable stone, until you reach a right-facing hanging dihedral. Air it out to the left on jugs, then climb up and left to a comfortable belay ledge and a 2-bolt anchor. (5.10a, 100')

Descent Options:

Thanks to all the traversing, a single-rope rappel reaches the ground easily.

Submitted by: j_ung on 2010-12-08
Views: 575
Route ID: 107461

1 Ascent Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: j_ung on 2010-12-08 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA

The MacCauley-Rose is named for two friends who gave me nuthin' but grief when I claimed Whippoorwill had a two-pitch route hiding in plain sight. I water soloed the second pitch in summer 2010 and rapped in to drill the anchor, but I didn't want to call it legitimate until I led it on gear. The exposure, length and adventure feel are all present and accounted for, and the M-R opens the door to several fine-looking lines through the long roof instead of traversing under it.

Added: 2010-12-08