Skip to Content

Happy Head - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.40/5 Average Rating : 3.40 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 71
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
Premier Sponsor:
John Vidumsky, Sandy Fleming
Rock (Trad)
G
1
trad gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

See guidebook for details

Submitted by: lena_chita on 2010-01-05
Views: 576
Route ID: 94892

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: DougMartin on 2011-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Perfectly named

Very thought provoking start. A very committing move on little or no pro gets you in the chimney! Nice climb there after, stay on the face for a tougher variation or use the areate to keep it 5.8.

Added: 2011-10-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a bit of variety in a single pitch

Kind of exciting getting started - the 5.8 move is probably the committing one getting you established in the chimney. Took a bit of pondering to figure out which way to go. I ended up trusting a C3 0 in a seam to protect the move out but if I had a big cam or big bro I probably could have climbed up the inside of the chimney and set it a sort of top rope for myself and climbed back down and did the move if I was truly freaked out. Anyway once you get underway it's pretty secure. I found the top to be a little runout but escaping to the arete out left helped take away the sting and gives an ok piece of pro. Fun to TR the 10a straight up the face afterwards too!

Added: 2010-06-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: satch on 2010-06-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars nice line

chimney moves are exciting to move out past the head jam stance. Used a blue big bro for pro there.

Added: 2010-06-28

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: LineoFire on 2008-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars a

fun stuff

Added: 2008-09-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Flash Flash ascent by: lena_chita on 2008-07-19 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars Flash on pre-placed gear

Interesting move to get established in the chimney, easy face climbing at the top. Elsewhere in the New River Gorege it would have been a sport climb.

Added: 2008-07-21