A must do!!. Starting left on the crack traverse left and make some hard crimpy moves up to a loose clipping jug. Continue up through steep pumpy slopers to a horizontal. Traverse left, moving past a pocket "probably full of water :)" and get a good rest. Move up and then move right to the in-your-face crux and follow easy climbing to the top. *Note, there is a new finish up and left, I don't know how hard it is, but probably makes the route 5.11 . . . following added by Leaverbiner - original description by DBrayack - The Left finish is more consistent with the first 6 bolts and is listed as 11d. An excellent route!
Submitted by: leaverbiner on 2004-06-01
Route ID: 37081
I had this thing. I cruised up the climb and got to the rest before the crux. After trying a lot of different things, I started a sequence of moves and I was on the right track. It was working. I grabbed a really crap crimper after making a huge reach. After that I saw a better crimper so I bumped to it, hit the hold, but was pumped enough that I wasn't able to hold onto it. Next hold was a good one, it would have been over. I'm coming back to slay this one real soon.
P.S. I hate the fact that I have to call this ascent a hang dog, since I only hung on it once.