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Just Another Crack - 5.9

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
1987, Gene Thompson, Wayne Sayre
Rock (Trad)
G
1
standard rack up to #3
40
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Per the Wolverine Press New River Guide description: "Start right of the big oak. Climb the Crack." Climbs a vertical hand crack past a small tree/bush and top out either the first ledge you come to or continue up to the true clifftop.

Descent Options:

Trust some smaller trees and plants and rap down (makes me nervous) or veer a little right and continue up another 10-15 feet to a bomber giant tree with a rap station directly over the route.

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2010-05-31
Views: 395
Route ID: 105049

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars ok line

Nice crack route that takes good gear with a couple of distinct 5.9 cruxes. Couple areas to catch your breath. My partner built a rats nest of an anchor out of the small trees and bushes at the initial top out ledge but when I finished cleaning I didn't really want to rap down off of it so I used the cleaned gear to lead up another 10-15 feet (right then up through the licheny crap) to reach a SOLID tree where I left a rap station. The topout move is pretty nasty but at least it's a protectable option rather than a dubious rappel. Your choice.

Added: 2010-05-31