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Ratz Holm - 5.7

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Premier Sponsor:
1987, Gene Thompson, Wayne Sayre
Rock (Trad)
PG13
1
Standard rack, a broom, and some mortar.
60
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 3.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Per the Wolverine Press guide description: "Begin just left of Freeblast. Climb the corner until you can step left at some jugs to finish up a right facing corner." Note: The corner and traverse contain some very poor fragile sandy rock. Proceed with caution. The very featured wild sandstone in the corner is thinner than it looks from the ground. The topout is very dirty.

Descent Options:

There was a rap station (webbing, rings) at the time of this posting. Whoever left the anchor thoughtfully attached a long handline from the tree where the station is located to the top of the climb for added safety when topping out on the slippery debris

Submitted by: mjwestla on 2010-05-31
Views: 349
Route ID: 105047

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: DougMartin on 2012-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Nice climb with some crappy rock

Nice moves made scary by weak crumbling rock! Makes a 5.7 a bit more exciting!

Added: 2012-09-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

1 out of 5 stars meh - chossy!

Climbed this expecting something better but was disappointed when body weight/climbing caused lots of small bits to crumble off as I made my way up the corner. The very tempting wavy sandstone jugs were thinner than they appeared from the ground and I was very hesitant to use them once I reached them (plus my belayer was yelling at me for knocking chunks off the wall). After attempting to distribute my body weight as much as possible as I pulled around the traverse and hoping the jugs stayed put, the next section seemed to have marginally better rock quality. Shortly after there is a slightly tough to protect crux move over a bulge and later near the top is a lieback flake that felt a bit strenuous for the grade but maybe I was still freaked out from the crap rock. The top moves are licheny and the top area is slick with debris before you reach a good anchor tree.

I suggest a PG-13 due to the nasty rock quality near the bottom. It doesn't really inspire confidence at that first crux; the move isn't hard but you wouldn't be happy if the crucial holds blasted off mid-move.

Added: 2010-05-31