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Two-Step Arete - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.83/5 Average Rating : 3.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Tom Howard, 1985
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Normal Trad rack on the small side
70
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.40/5
  Rock Quality 3.80/5
  Scenery 3.80/5
  Fun Factor 3.60/5

Description:

Central Endless to the right of and a short walk from Fantasy Crack, tops out and hauling bags is OK, so can be used as a climb out at end of day. Head up blunt arete, heading first directly up and then moving around to head-up the left hand side until reaching a corner on the right hand side. Traverse around right into the corner and head up to big horizontal break. Get good gear in break and then head up the last unprotected 20' to slopey top-out to pine tree anchor station. Mostly tat webbing here, I used my own gear to belay up second. In my opinion, gear was mostly the smallest stuff I had until about 40' feet where I could get in #1 Camalot and then very small stuff until big horizontal break and then 20' unprotected. Heady lead, you will want to be a solid 5.8 or 5.9 trad leader.

Submitted by: miico000 on 2009-06-29
Views: 811
Route ID: 100607

6 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: up_for_a_good_time on 2013-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good climbing, a bit heady...and move RIGHT at roof

as stated before, small gear till halfway point. move left, then right, then left, etc. on arete. despite super chalked up holds on left side under rood, stay right. move up. last 20 feet is sketchy and unprotected. bolt anchors. overall, very good climb.

Added: 2013-05-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gregl on 2012-09-23 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars sketchy

A big plus on that 5.8! Thin and poorly protected down low to a runout finish! the bolted anchors are nice though! Also, screw the guidebook - stay right after the first ledge.

Added: 2012-09-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: girlclimb on 2011-10-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars cool

great climb but be prepared on lead if you are looking for a G or PG begining is run out then not great rock in the middle and run out again at the top. There are bolted ancors now. I followed so i thought the route was great hahaha

Added: 2011-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: jajen on 2010-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

been on it before - love the left side variation finish. should probably be relatively solid on the grade before leading

Added: 2010-05-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2009-05-13 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars intriguing 8

interesting moves. hard for the grade. difficult thin gear below the 1st crux. good exposure and difficult moves at the top. Needs ring anchors as of May 09.

Added: 2009-10-13

... Read all 6 ascent notes