Skip to Content

Fantasy - Direct Finish - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Gear (tri-cams especially useful)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 3.67/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Climb the first pitch crack of fantasy at 5.8 to the belay ledge and anchor in. Instead of following the original route right, go up from the ledge and exit out the corner to the left. The holds for the final bit are just out of sight.

Submitted by: forkliftdaddy on 2006-06-12
Views: 1429
Route ID: 53174

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jajen on 2012-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fun!!

Just a little dirty but lots of fun.

Added: 2012-08-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: j_ung on 2008-05-25 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fantasy Roof

Not sure where RC.com's 10c and PG13 ratings come from. The pitch is a one-move wonder at the low end of 5.10. The gear is bomber and plentiful, and if you blow the crux up high, you fall into nice, soft air. The climbing is so-so on rock that's higher quality than it looks from down low, and the pitch is very short. Still, I think it's a worthwhile route, especially if you want multipitch climbing at the New and have already climbed the amazing first pitch (5.8). The best part is looking down through your stems at nothing but air! I combined the two pitches into one, lowered and cleaned to the anchor atop the first pitch, and then rappelled from there, because I wasn't sure a 60-meter rope would reach from the top.

Added: 2008-05-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lugor on 2007-03-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Scary but fun

The climb is straightforward until the corner. Small tiered roofs with good gear every 3-4ft. Corner very small stems, but a solid rest before you get to it. Last two moves are the scariest as there is a very tiny cam placement and loose grass on top. Heard it's been cleaned up and someone installed shuts there.. would make the top-off easier.. and probably give it a 10b rating.

Added: 2008-03-14