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Rock Lobster - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Rock (Trad)
PG13
small cams, 3 #2 Camelots, pink tri-cam, small nuts. double ropes
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Just left of Bullet the New Sky arete. Starts in right facing corner at arete moves left 30 feet, then up and back right to a single bolt. Then straight up and slightly left to bolted anchors. Expect short runouts on marginal gear. Best with double ropes.

Submitted by: satch on 2011-06-07
Last Modified: 2011-06-21
Views: 628
Route ID: 108995

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: forkliftdaddy on 2011-06-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Ed Begoon strikes again!

If you thought the slabbier, headier Party route was great, try this one. Continuously engaging route with good gear that's widely spaced at times. Only needed one hand-size placement, but double ropes would've been great. Slinging my leftmost gear long -- more gear even farther left was available -- proved good enough. Had I clipped the bolt and subsequent gear with 24" slings, the rope drag would've been fine.

Added: 2011-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: csproul on 2011-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Followed this

looks like a very scary lead. Hard 10 moved above thin sketchy gear. I was glad to be cleaning it.

Added: 2011-06-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: satch on 2011-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great moves, heady route

Excellent face climbing with many technical gear placements. It's all there, just hard to get. Used Lowe balls, small offset aliens, small cams and 3 #2 Camelots. Recommend double ropes.

Added: 2011-06-07