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Cow in a China Shop - 5.8

Average Rating = 2.00/5 Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Slab at the start of Fern, covered in lichen. a horrendous line of wandering ferocity. never sure if your on route. Go do it!

Submitted by: neoamhas on 2007-10-27
Views: 985
Route ID: 90085

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mjwestla on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars THIN and GREEN

Jumped on this b/c it was given a star in the new NRG guide book. Didn't find it particularly star worthy but kind of intriguing once I got into the spirit and past the sketchy start. Maybe I missed something but after the first move you are suddenly faced with possible groundfall as you crank up on green licheny crimps to an area without obvious immediate pro. I chose to live to climb another day and blatantly cheated by traversing over to put a sling around the tree (which actually seemed to work fine). From here it's a series of cryptic pulls on small crimpy bits that you hope won't break to often nerve-racking shallow or flared horizontals that take mostly small gear. I had to get creative on this one... The roof was interesting and took the best gear of anything on the route: a #1 and/or #2 C4. These were the last really good pieces for me, as the rest are a little flared out. Had to wander right then traverse back left to find the best way up. The small dihedral after this is funky but I think I managed to get a piece I was OK with before committing to the fuzzy green mantle topout. Anchored to and rapped from a tree. I think the main theme of this climb is: if you find a gear placement - TAKE IT.

I wasn't thrilled to be on this at the time b/c the gear was less than obvious and didn't always feel bomber, plus that start sucks but I guess I can understand why some might find it appealing. Kind of a head game. Needs a LOT more traffic to de-green it though.

Odd that the first listed climb at the first wall you come to would be so untouched but then again, it doesn't look very likely from the ground.

Added: 2010-05-30