Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
4 bolts and anchors
Moving R from trail intersection (R of BS&C), turn right just before No weld and Wintermute (first routes at trail level) and hike/boulder up L onto ledge. Follow ledge back L to reach Almost Heaven.
Clim short wall to ledge, move out R under roof, then up over edge of roof to finsh to anchors.
LOwer/rap from anchors.
Submitted by: roninthorne on 2008-05-03
Route ID: 93484
SOLID 10 crux. Don't cheat this sweet route by 1. using the choss shit to the left of the corner for handholds at the start and 2. chillin' on the ledge above the first roof until your belayer falls asleep. Stay true to the route by 1. climbing the bolt line and use the nubs and sidepulls to get to the first ledge after bolt #2 and 2. stemming your right foot back towards the route while shaking out (left foot on ledge) prior to pulling the crux, instead of camping out like it's Jellystone. Route is a 5.10b because the crux is balls out on lead and you have to sequence in the beginning as there are limited good holds. 5.10a if you cheat once or twice and then pull the crux, IMO.