Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Trad gear from 1/4 to 4 inches, shoulder runners for chicken heads, webbing to back up the anchor.
Wild exposure and stellar climbing on a classic tower.
Start at the southeast corner, on the notch between towers, or just uphill to the left, facing west. Cross the slab and face to a V-notch move through a small overhang, gaining the slab above. Move up and through a wild roof, slinging chickenheads, to gain an incredible stance on the arete. Move left and up the featured groove, or right and up the amazing crack in the middle of the face to gain the small ledge below the final crux. Move up through the incredible holds on the south face to gain the top.
Some of the rock is a little dicey, and some of the gear is a little hard or non-existent, but the line is sweet, the holds are phenomenal, and the view amazing. Great year-round with the right clothing.
Move to the N end to find the anchors. Rap the incredibly featured chossy E face, 60m reaches easily.
Submitted by: roninthorne on 2007-12-13
Route ID: 91410
Tried this once and backed down from the intital moves due to sketchy looking rock, bad faall potential, and testicular atrophy. Left a nice #8 Hexcentric for someone to snag (they did), came back a week later and sent the line by MOONLIGHT! Incredible chickenheads protect the top with a final wild move around the arete and onto the summit.