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Unrelenting Verticality - 5.9

Average Rating = 3.88/5 Average Rating : 3.88 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
Standard Seneca Rack - Full range of nuts and cams. Steel nuts for start.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

20 feet uphill from Finger Stinger. Start on thin lightly protected right slanting crack. Boulder start, then climb up and right to ledge. Continue climbing crack (don't layback) to ledge with small tree. Its easier if you keep right on the face. Traverse right on ledge to shared bolts with Rox Salt. Lower if possible and belay second. I would add to beattyJo's description that after the first boulder move one adds a CAMP tri-cam in the 3" range the following moves are safe from ground fall. A #3 camalot is the size but the crack is not deep enough for all 4 lobes - hence CAMP tri-cam...

Submitted by: jacurry243 on 2006-10-24
Views: 849
Route ID: 56330

11 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bdc on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: selahkraft on 2008-10-18 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars pretty thin

tough start

Added: 2008-10-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: snowkitty1224 on 2008-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars .

.

Added: 2008-10-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: hawaii_climbing_guy on 2008-09-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars w00t!

Wow, what an awesome route. I couldn't see how to protect the bottom, so I set it up for top rope by traversing from Rox Salt. It's about the stoutest 5.9 I've ever climbed. It's totally classic crack criming!!!

This route is what I call "5.10 5.19". By the way, the pro at the beginning is *very dicey*. My partner's guide-book says "PG", but make no mistake, there is no "hidden" pro that just isn't visible from the ground. Beware!

Added: 2008-09-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: JAGWire on 2001-05-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Excellent

#6 stopper protect opening moves.

Added: 2008-08-21

... Read all 11 ascent notes