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A Different School of Thought - 5.10d

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Massey Teel
Rock (Trad)
PG13
2
A large rack incluing micro-nuts, tri-cams, single cams to 3" and doubles to 2" are needed for the first pitch. Consider double ropes and extra slings and extra micro cams.
200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

P1: Start at the black ramp between between Sixth Sense and Muscle Beach. Up the ramp to the roofs (optional 5" piece) and then traverse left into the main corner above the ramp. Follow the corner straight up through several bulges with some questionable rock. When the angle backs off stick to the corner, then trend slightly left through the roof. Follow the corner up until it is possible to traverse to the Muscle Beach 2nd pitch anchors on the right (150' 5.10+). Sustained through the crux with some questionable pro. P2: Step up and then trend left towards the arete take the arete up to a final roof before the top out just right of Ecstasy. Runout in the begining.(50' 5.7) This route was established ground up, with out the use of any fixed protection.

Submitted by: massey82 on 2011-08-11
Last Modified: 2013-04-16
Views: 659
Route ID: 109609

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-10-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Warm fall send

Excellent route.

Added: 2011-10-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome new route, Massey

Great route. Read my partner's description below. He pretty much sums it up. I think 10+ is a fair grade for it. Although I don't think there was a single move that was harder than Seneca 10c, it is very sustained the whole way. Nothing comes easy. There are some decent stances, but no all out rests, really. Gear is small most of the way, but pretty decent. I agree with PG13 for this route. Not quite R rated, if you know what you're doing. I had to hang a couple of times because I wasn't exactly sure what to do...no chalk, and the moves looked very intimidating! Once you get into them though, they are great and doable if you climb hard 5.10.

Added: 2011-10-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Phenomenal new route - one of my favorite pitches at Seneca

I don't know how my partner always wins the rock flip. So he got the lead for the second ascent of this new line. The route looks like it should be awkward and hopelessly pumpy. Instead, you get clean, interesting stemming, laybacks and stances most of the way. We both remarked how you'll arrive at what looks like a really hard part, then you do one or two stiff moves and then a stance just appears. The route reminded us of Agony, for how long and sustained it is, but the style of moves is unlike anything at Seneca. From what I could see the gear is quite good. You just need to bring plenty of it and be smart in placing it. My partner gave it a PG rating, given some crumbly rock. Indeed, I fell off at one of the cruxes with a broken hold in my hand. This won't be a problem with a little more traffic. A #5 is nice to have for the beginning, though there are probably other options. I look forward to getting back on it when I return.

Added: 2011-10-10