Scaly and loose. Very old school. From top of P1 of SJM, follow obvious ramp to steep white face. You can also belay off of shuts to the left of the usual Totem Buttress shuts with a long runner. Up face and left to base of severely overhanging slot. Follow slot, turn lip and belay at a decent small ledge. Medium cams (red, gold or blue camalots) helpful at belay. Follow buttress up fun and much easier rock to the top. Doing the 3rd pitch of Totem is a good option.
Walk off or use shuts on Totem to rap
Submitted by: cclarke on 2009-06-08
Route ID: 100147