A worthwhile, easy route that wanders up the west face. Pitch 1: Start to the left of the Traffic Jam rappel line. Ascend the short corner, traverse 20ft left, ascend the 30ft corner and traverse another 20ft left to a bolted rappel station. Pitch 2: Most parties climb Front C to the ledge on the Old Man's route. (Someone else supply the details about the true second pitch. ... OK, I will: from the top of the 30ft vertical of P1 you traverse a ledge system that slants slightly upward until you met the arete. From there you climb a chimney that is part of the Le Gourmet route. This route protects well. There is one place in the traverse that requires a few little verticle moves to access a narrow ledge up higher to reach the arete, FAN). Ends at the enormous ledge beneath the last pitch of Old Man's. Pitch 3: Seldom done but has an "alpine" feel and is quite enjoyable. Aim for the base of Critter Crack by following the 4th class ramp and flake that angles left and up. Ascend the blocky corner system for about 100ft finishing at the slings or escaping right (airy!) to the ledge at the top of Critter Crack. Descent: either rappel from the slings to the start of Critter crack and from there to the Traffic Jam rappel or scramble from the top of Critter Crack to the Summit Ledge and use one of the regular rappel routes.
For a little spice take the "Easy Over" variation up the "s" shaped crack halfway across the traverse on the second pitch (5.5) upper part of variation is a steep beautiful position.
Submitted by: fanederhand on 2006-05-08
Route ID: 37179