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R and R - 5.6

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Premier Sponsor:
Tom Cecil, Nick Sisk, 1990s
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Gear
130
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Per Tony Barnes' 2006 2ed guide book p. 220, "Climb up Worrel's Thicket about thirty feet until you reach a small ledge on the left with 2 bolts" to find the start of the climb. There is lower ledge with two bolts spaced widely apart (T&T and Don't Think Twice) and a higher ledge about 30' up Worrels with a two-bolt anchor. Hard to tell which one Barnes is describing.
Barnes again: "#1 Climb up to the left-facing corner system and follow it to the end of Kaufman Cardon (130 ft.)" It would seem that Barnes is saying to start from higher ledge with the two-bolt anchor since he says this is one pitch. But many people seem to start lower, near the start to Worrel's and the ledge with the T&T and Don't Think Twice bolts, and break the climb up into two pitches.

Descent Options:

Two-bolt rap station at the end of Kaufman Cardon, or scramble up 8 more feet to Lower Broadway Ledge and descend or walk off from there.

Submitted by: toeknee on 2012-10-22
Last Modified: 2012-10-24
Views: 346
Route ID: 112825

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.6
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: toeknee on 2012-10-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Nice way to get to Lower Broadway

We roped up at the base of Worrel's since we were not sure exactly where the climb started. Climbed up Worrel's and found the ledge with two-bolts, and joined up with R and R just above that. Was low on gear and short on rope half-way up the high left-facing corner, so set a belay and broke the climb into two pitches. I led the first one, John G. the second, I believe the crux was on his pitch.

Leaves were peaking in fall colors; the rock was wonderful, the gear good, and the scenery beautiful.

Added: 2012-10-22