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The Changeling - 5.11c

Average Rating = 3.78/5 Average Rating : 3.78 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Standard Seneca rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.38/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

Start below a shallow right-facing, right-leaning flake about 35ft right of Conn's East. #1Climb flake for 40ft to its end, move up past two bolts (crux) and crack to the roof. Travers left around the roof and up to large ledge belay 90ft. #2 Finish on Conn's East

Submitted by: ascender30 on 2004-09-10
Views: 1331
Route ID: 59276

11 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 11 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bdc on 2012-12-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Herm.

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Added: 2012-12-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: zealotnoob on 2011-10-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Sweet send

Had gotten on this last year, but didn't get it clean. I failed again on my first try this year, but reaquainted myself with the beta. It was becoming dark fast, but I decided to get on it one more time. I took a few glugs from the wine bottle and sent it by headlamp. It was crazy how easy it felt that time. Was surreal to look out on the moonlit valley at the top.

Added: 2011-10-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: zealotnoob on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars it'll go

Fell once at the crux. Continued from the rest before the crux. Rested on the rope past the hard stuff, above the second bolt, to collect myself and get my gear straight. Once you blow the onsight or redpoint, it's hard to keep a hard edge on the focus, eh? Got it clean on top rope afterward. Good temps and fresh skin are useful. Keep your head tied on for that unprotected start.

Added: 2010-11-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2010-11-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars follow the leader

Followed my partner on this hard climb. For a leader, the bottom is potentially troubling, with no pro for about 10-15 feet. Not hard climbing per se, but kind of tricky. Crux is well protected with two bolts, but the moves are hard. Agree that you need to do this in the fall. I took a fall at the crux.

Added: 2010-11-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: p_wave on 2008-10-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route

Took one hang at the second bolt. Hard crimps and very little feet but a very fun climb!

Added: 2008-10-22

... Read all 11 ascent notes