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In Your Footsteps - 5.8

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
R
1
Old pitons, ring pins, several cams between fingers and fists, big wires, hexes, long slings, powerful psychosis. Pro is sparse, insecure, and tricky.
75
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

At the obvious bend of the river, find the large tower cracked away from the main face of the cliff in a left-facing corner. Scramble up talus into the 5.2 ledges and into the dihed proper. Looking up you should just be able to make out the first pin up and left about ten feet. You can actually place a high hex or cam here to protect you until you reach that stance, and decide to clip the pin once you realize they placed it becase there is no other gear. Move up and right, across several huge, wedged blocks of stone, through a stem and onto another ledge, at (you guessed it) another pin. If you look high in the corner, there is a funky slot for a #2 Camalot, and a slotted nut up in the shattered cracks above and to the left. these will protect you for the final runout 20' of mantling and chimneying through loose blocks and chockstones to reach the fairly strong-looking ring angle just below the summit slab. Please do NOT be foolish enough to try rapping from this... it's not that far to help, but they won't need to run, either way... Set some horizontal cams or nuts in the summit slabs' base cracks and belay from the comfort and incredible views of the top.

Descent Options:

Walk left (downriver) about 35 yds to a tree that overhangs the cliff and is circled by the tattered remains of two pieces of webbing. Please remove these before tying your own n ew anchor and bailing, or hike another hundred and fifty yards to the 5.7R

Submitted by: roninthorne on 2007-01-05
Views: 1073
Route ID: 82386

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: roninthorne on 2006-11-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Known Ascent

Following a beautiful, scarey old line. Maybe the first free ascent?

Added: 2007-01-05