Entrance Walls- The Roadcut
About Entrance Walls- The Roadcut:
The first of the obvious N-facing walls to the L of Smoke Hole Road as you enter the canyon.
Typical pocketed limestone with loads of good horizontals and a surprising number of cracks and other features leadable on (bold) trad gear.
The rock, while sandy, is quite nice, and although this area is plagued with crowded parking and high-speed traffic from the seasonal hunters and fishermen, lots of trash along the base and a tendency to stay green for days after the rain, it still provides shady summer toproping and trad climbing for those who just want to get in a few lines or stretch out a bit on a rest day.
Most obvious trad lines have been led, years ago, which doesn't mean all the loose rock is gone.... we had to leave SOME adventure for you newcomers, didn't we?
Right now we are publishing a guidebook to the region, with the goal of funding PHAR/UP, an anchor upgrade program that includes installing top anchors throughout the canyon to reduce rope-burn impact on the trees and remover the need for every trad line to finish by pulling onto the (in many cases) environmentally-fragile and unstable top ledges.
Routes in this section begin at the buttress of rock that most closely adjoins the road and continue left (downstream) to the obvious break in the cliff that leads up to the Sky Box bouldering cave.
|Approach:||Drive 0.3 miles into Smoke Hole Canyon, swing L around bend and over small hill beside Alt Farm. Walls begin 100' ahead on left. Park intelligently on the river side of the road. Watch for traffic... they will not necessarily slow down just because you are in or near the road.|
|Approach Time:||15 seconds|
|Access Issues:||Limited parking and hazards from traffic. Do not block traffic in any way or we will be dealing with the DOH and NFS Law. Area can be trashy after holidays. Private land at the top of cliff and at upper end of access hollow that leads to Sky Box. Be respectful and wear blaze orange during hunting season if accessing route anchors.|
|Type of Climbing:||Top Rope|
|Sun Aspect:||All Day Shade|