One of the original "hero" climbs of the Lake. With maginal gear, and a good run out, this is a serious lead. Start at the same crack system of Berkeley, moving up and into the triangular niche on the left instead of traversing right. From the niche, arc left through a sustained crux, and eventually easier climbing.
Submitted by: ramylson on 2003-09-25
Route ID: 40960
top-roped, on my need to lead list. lots of fun and yea it may feel a bit like a 5.9, especially if you finish up to the lip via the face crack/pockets on the right after the rest ledge. tons of fun. sustained crux meaning 4 moves instead of 1 or 2. a classic 5.8 'hero' climb, like the guidebook says.
I waited until I was solid on 5.11 to lead this, and I found the reputation to be a bit overblown. With modern gear (namely offsets), this climb protects well...though I didn't actually test the integrity of the pieces.