Take the South Face Approach then follow the Ramp, and scramble to the base of the climb which is four cracks left of the Stake Ladder. Pitch 1 (155 ft, 5.8) Climb the initial offwidth section about 35 ft., past a chockstone, to a horizontal crack across the column face that is just below small roofs and above a small bush in the crack to the left. This section can be well protected with a #4 Camalot and by tying off the chockstone. The technical crux of the pitch is traversing across the horizontal crack to the next vertical crack on the left. Several small stoppers (#3-#5) provide excellent protection. Climb the long left crack (passing chains after the traverse) to a belay ledge with bolt anchors. Pitch 2 (150 ft, 5.7) take the obvious right hand crack off of the belay ledge. It features very continuous, yet secure hand jams and takes you to the same belay bolts as the left hand crack. The first 10 ft are the crux. The crack to the left is the Horning Variation, which is slightly easier. Rap the route (single or double rope) or continue to the summit via Meadows Finish. The standard (and much less climbed) Bon Homme route continues straight up the initial wide crack without traversing left.
Submitted by: adamd on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 724