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Bon Homme Variation - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 36
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (18)
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Rock
Standard rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

Take the South Face Approach then follow the Ramp, and scramble to the base of the climb which is four cracks left of the Stake Ladder. Pitch 1 (155 ft, 5.8) Climb the initial offwidth section about 35 ft., past a chockstone, to a horizontal crack across the column face that is just below small roofs and above a small bush in the crack to the left. This section can be well protected with a #4 Camalot and by tying off the chockstone. The technical crux of the pitch is traversing across the horizontal crack to the next vertical crack on the left. Several small stoppers (#3-#5) provide excellent protection. Climb the long left crack (passing chains after the traverse) to a belay ledge with bolt anchors. Pitch 2 (150 ft, 5.7) take the obvious right hand crack off of the belay ledge. It features very continuous, yet secure hand jams and takes you to the same belay bolts as the left hand crack. The first 10 ft are the crux. The crack to the left is the Horning Variation, which is slightly easier. Rap the route (single or double rope) or continue to the summit via Meadows Finish. The standard (and much less climbed) Bon Homme route continues straight up the initial wide crack without traversing left.

Submitted by: adamd on 2006-08-22
Views: 1890
Route ID: 724

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18 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: nightlion on 2014-07-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Bon Homme

Another good climb.

Added: 2014-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: tigerlilly on 2010-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Followed Jay

I'm glad I climbed this, but wow, it was strenuous.

Added: 2010-09-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jackflash on 2010-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fingers 'n' hands

beautiful

Added: 2010-06-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2010-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Traverse is tough

but the rest is real fun. Second pitch is one of the best. Remember small stoppers for the first pitch crux.

Added: 2010-06-02

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-08-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars _

_

Added: 2008-08-21

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