Take the Durrance Approach to the South West Shoulder. The route is four cracks right of Direct Southwest. Pitch 1 (C2+, 100ft.) aid the thin corner on small stoppers and RP's to a hanging belay. Don't go too far, as a secure belay is hard to establish up higher.
Pitch 2 (C2+,165 ft.) continue aiding as the crack widens. It is best to set the belay as high as possible. Turn the roofs on their right. Above is a fine ledge and a great spot for an anchor.
Pitch 3 (5.8, 165 ft.) climb this Clasic "Top-of -Devils -Tower-Chimney" to its end at the summit. Take many large pieces, slings to tie off natural chock stones and perhaps a hammer to set several "fixed" pins.
Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 3242