Skip to Content

Butterfingers - A2

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 200
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Premier Sponsor:
lots of blades, bugaboos, arrows full rack of stoppers and hexs.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Take the Durrance Approach to the South West Shoulder. The route is four cracks right of Direct Southwest. Pitch 1 (C2+, 100ft.) aid the thin corner on small stoppers and RP's to a hanging belay. Don't go too far, as a secure belay is hard to establish up higher. Pitch 2 (C2+,165 ft.) continue aiding as the crack widens. It is best to set the belay as high as possible. Turn the roofs on their right. Above is a fine ledge and a great spot for an anchor. Pitch 3 (5.8, 165 ft.) climb this Clasic "Top-of -Devils -Tower-Chimney" to its end at the summit. Take many large pieces, slings to tie off natural chock stones and perhaps a hammer to set several "fixed" pins.

Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Views: 734
Route ID: 3242