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Routes : North America : United States : Wyoming : Eastern Wy. : Devils Tower : Devils Tower : Dancing With The Devils After Dark

Dancing With The Devils After Dark - 5.8 A3+

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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June 2006 by Nate ChossMonkey and Bigwally
Rock (Trad) Aid
R
3
Standard Aid Rack, with 40+ KnifeBlades and some bigger pieces for the last pitch.
500
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A3+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

The Steepest Face of Devils Tower is the South West Face. It features extremely thin and shallow cracks, only one ledge on the entire face and numerous overhangs.This route is one crack to the right of the CENTENNIAL route. It was first climbed by Nate Chossmonkey and Bigwally in June, 2006. It was a 22 hour effort, from start to finish...and an Excellent Route !! Pitch 1. A3+/A4- (160 ft.) Nail this crack for a long rope length, until it widens, and allows You a Great Belay, just below the left-most of the twin roofs. We used 40 KnifeBlades (35 tied-off) and a handful of RURPS and BEAKS. The anchors are Very Secure, long Lost Arrows and Baby Angles. One heck of a Fine Pitch. Pitch 2. A2 (~140 ft.)Nail around the left side of the left-most roof and continue upwards to where a Good Anchor can be set. As the crack is both wider and deeper now, the aiding is Fun and not very demanding. Pitch 3. A2,5.8 (~140 ft.)Aid a short distance until the crack widens and allows free climbing (5.8) to the Tower Top. This pitch will work Ya !!

Submitted by: bigwally on 2007-11-14
Views: 971
Route ID: 90721

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A4
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: chossmonkey on 2006-06-18 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars New route with Bigwally

My first marathon route. Because the SW Face is the hottest wall on the Tower we started in the evening with the plan of climbing all night and finishing before the sun would catch us. The going was slow so we still ended up getting a bit cooked. I wish I would have slept before we started! The third pitch will take as many big pieces as you want to haul up the first two. Frank lead the first two pitches, I lead the third.

Added: 2007-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8 A3+
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwally on 2006-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars New Route with The Chossmonkey !!

Encouraged by our sucess at putting a new route on the North West face, Nate and I took up a very improbable looking line on the Steep South West Face. 22 hours of climbing, hanging and rapping late we had made the Tower Top and returned to the ground. Sunlight came and went but the smiles stayed Bright all the way !!

Added: 2007-11-15