The original Durrance Approach follows the West Face approach till you're above the talus field at which point you head right all the way around to the base of the first pitch.
An alternative is to continue continue counter clockwise on the Tower Trail until you reach the sight tubes for the Stake Ladder. Follow the dirt trail to the base of the Bowling Alley (South Face Approach). Approach Pitch (100 ft, 5.4)Take a crack on the left that looks as if it is the end of a gutter. Follow this crack or traverse left one crack for easier climbing.
Pitch 1. Leaning Column (60 ft, 5.6). Jam up to where the column breaks over and then chimney/ offwidth behind it. 4 fixed pins protect this pitch and additional hand-sized protection can be added.
Pitch 2. Durrance Crack (70 ft, 5.7) Double cracks lead upwards to a point where you have to finally commit to offwidthing the righthand crack to the belay. Hand-to-fist size protection and a large Camalot protect this pitch quite well. You may also take a runner to tie off a chockstone, just before the offwidth section
Pitch 3. Cussin' Crack (30 ft, 5.4) Short, but awkward chimney/offwidth take you up 15 ft to a ledge. This section is well protected by #3-#5 stoppers or #1 TCU that go behind a small flake on the left. From the ledge you may continue straight up 15 ft more off width or traverse right, around a corner to the next crack, which is a little more appealing.
Pitch 4. Flake Crack (50 ft, 5.5) A lovely, right side in, hand crack. Well protected
Pitch5. Chockstone Crack (50 ft, 5.5) A large chimney takes you to 2 large chockstones that appear to block your path. Both are easily pulled-up over, with finger-hand sized, overhead protection. Pitches 3,4, and 5 can be linked, but rope drag can be a problem.
For the Meadows finish take the Jump Traverse to the right or continue on Bailey Direct.
Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 4734
This one's been on my to do list for a long time. Ben led the approach & Leaning Column; I led Durrance Crack; Daniel combined Cussing, Flake & Chockstone Cracks; I finished up Bailey Direct, but had to break it into two pitches due to rope drag. Stellar route!
Reached the summit after 8 long hours of hauling my partner (the slowest climber that I have ever known) up the tower, all in all a good climb, but I didnít know it was an off-width, something that Iím not too fond of. Great climb though, defiantly would do it again. We took the direct finish to the top, instead of doing the jump traverse.