Take the South Face Approach and the follow the Ramp to the East Ledges. One crack right of TAD. Pitch 1 (100ft, 5.7) wide crack to bolt belay. Pitch 2 (160 ft., 5.8) simply the finest hand and fist crack around. 5 stars on a 3 star scale. Classic!! Long pitch, take alot of gear, the crux is at a bulge. Summit via the Meadows or take the El Cracko rappels. The rap is one crack right of El Cracko. This is one of the few raps that is possible with a single 60 (chains all the way down). With double ropes this can be done in two raps, and be sure to watch the ends of your ropes!
Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 1538
Great first pitch. Second pitch is strenuous 5.8 the ENTIRE way up. I didnt find the buldge to be the crux, rather the 15 feet below the buldge where you run out of right feet and right hand on the opposing wall. Then the smearing gets a little slick. Great climb though.
The main reason for our visit to Devils Tower was to visit with Frank Sanders. One of the most generous souls I have ever met in the climbing industry and a must person to meet if you get the chance. With dark clouds looming above, we decided to squeeze in this route before continuing our two week road trip back home. A 70m rope will get you to the top of the route with minimal simul climbing. Triple 2's and 1's are helpful if you are going to combine the pitches like that. There is a hanging rap station out right to hit first, before rapping back to the mid station if using a 70m. Good sustained climbing. With Stacy.