Take the South Face Approach and the follow the Ramp to the East Ledges. One crack right of TAD. Pitch 1 (100ft, 5.7) wide crack to bolt belay. Pitch 2 (160 ft., 5.8) simply the finest hand and fist crack around. 5 stars on a 3 star scale. Classic!! Long pitch, take alot of gear, the crux is at a bulge. Summit via the Meadows or take the El Cracko rappels. The rap is one crack right of El Cracko. This is one of the few raps that is possible with a single 60 (chains all the way down). With double ropes this can be done in two raps, and be sure to watch the ends of your ropes!
Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 1538
Great first pitch. Second pitch is strenuous 5.8 the ENTIRE way up. I didnt find the buldge to be the crux, rather the 15 feet below the buldge where you run out of right feet and right hand on the opposing wall. Then the smearing gets a little slick. Great climb though.