Take the West Face Approach. Pitch 1 (5.9, 80 ft) Jam the right hand crack up to the obvious belay ledge at the base of the Long Stem. You will find a 2 Bolt Belay. The crux is the last 15-20 ft. of the crack.
Pitch2 (5.10d, 140 ft) Feet stem, hands and fingers can jam the left hand crack. No hard moves. No easy moves. It is simply continuous, highly systematic and Wildly Enjoyable. Belay on the column top to the left from a Bolt Belay.
Rap Route or continue on McCarthy West Face.
Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 469
My legs were burning for days after this one. It was getting dark so I couldn’t lead it, but the party before me was kind enough to trail a rope behind there last climber and belay me from the top of the second pitch. I only did the first two pitches.
Brilliant, sustained, and fun climbing up an elevator shaft. I question its ".10d" status if I can onsight it at the age of 30. Placed 29 pieces of gear and, except for a short insecure lieback somewhere down low, stemmed just about the whole thing. 5'5" and although this route made me tired, stemming was rarely impractical.