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El Matador - 5.10d popular

Average Rating = 4.82/5 Average Rating : 4.82 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 182
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (31)
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Rock
Hand sized gear on down.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.44/5
  Rock Quality 4.78/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 4.56/5

Description:

Take the West Face Approach. Pitch 1 (5.9, 80 ft) Jam the right hand crack up to the obvious belay ledge at the base of the Long Stem. You will find a 2 Bolt Belay. The crux is the last 15-20 ft. of the crack. Pitch2 (5.10d, 140 ft) Feet stem, hands and fingers can jam the left hand crack. No hard moves. No easy moves. It is simply continuous, highly systematic and Wildly Enjoyable. Belay on the column top to the left from a Bolt Belay. Rap Route or continue on McCarthy West Face.

Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Views: 2251
Route ID: 469

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31 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Do it mostly without stemming

Stemming this feels good for about 20 seconds. Mostly nut placements. Gets a bit wider at top.

Added: 2012-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dhug_soill on 2010-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars LEG BURNER!

Killer climb! Burned the crap out of my legs! friggen sweet tho! Had to completely sew up that climb!

Added: 2012-01-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: tamaguna on 2011-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars El Matador

My legs were burning for days after this one. It was getting dark so I couldn’t lead it, but the party before me was kind enough to trail a rope behind there last climber and belay me from the top of the second pitch. I only did the first two pitches.

Added: 2011-09-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-08-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars El Matador

Brilliant, sustained, and fun climbing up an elevator shaft. I question its ".10d" status if I can onsight it at the age of 30. Placed 29 pieces of gear and, except for a short insecure lieback somewhere down low, stemmed just about the whole thing. 5'5" and although this route made me tired, stemming was rarely impractical.

Added: 2010-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jackflash on 2010-07-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Led p2. I was surprised at how little stemming I actually had to do. Never more than a few moves at a time. I mostly used the crack, which had bomber locks and great pro. Placed 12 pieces.

Added: 2010-07-04

... Read all 31 ascent notes