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McCarthy North Face - 5.11a

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 119
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Jim McCarthy & John Rupley (III 5.7, A2) August 5, 1957. First Free Ascent; Dennis Horning & Frank Sanders (5.11a) May 28, 1978
Rock (Trad)
G
4
standard D.T. rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.67/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Take the Tower Trail counter clockwise passing the large fallen column on the east side of the trail. A dirt trail will head of to the left, follow this up to the base and right, passing the Teacher's Lounge. Prominent roof is easily recognizable on the route. Pitch 1 (200 ft) climbs good 5.8+ to a belay below a small roof. Pitch 2 (120 ft) pulls the roof (crux) and continues on sustained fingers to a bolt belay. You can rap the route after the 2nd pitch or continue up two pitches (5.9 and 5.6) to the summit, being careful not to send rock down to your second.

Submitted by: chaps on 2007-11-04
Views: 1048
Route ID: 46407

11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-09-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice route

But, this doesn't take good cams. Bring lots of medium to small nuts. The starting roof can be easy.

We took this to the top. OK last pitch, but RAP a bit hard to find.

Added: 2012-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: monicaj on 2010-08-25 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Wished I'd had more nuts

Felt uneasy about my cam placements, good place to hone in on your nut placing skills. Took this route to the top of the tower.

Added: 2011-04-28

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cyfairrockhound on 2010-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Stellar!!!!

1st is standard tower approach, but a little more enjoyable. 2nd is incredible fingers with nice stances right when you need them.

Added: 2010-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bigwally on 1978-05-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Thank You Jim McCarthy

Climbed this one with Dingus McGee, way back when 5.11 meant somthing. Beautiful Line, Incredible Time !! Thank You, Dennis !! Blessed are those who Live Out their Dreams.

Added: 2007-10-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lightrack on 2006-07-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

must have placed over 30 pieces, the majority being medium stoppers. Very quality route...one of my finer leads though it seemed to take forever

Witnessed by: ranger jacob
Added: 2006-07-30

... Read all 11 ascent notes