Take the West Face Approach. The route is two cracks left of the El Mat stem box.
Pitch 1 (100 ft, 5.9) From the belay on the ledge-bench-slot, The crux is about 15 feet up. Protect, Reach High, Pull Hard !!! Continue up the crack to the top of the column which has tapered to a large flake. Belay from a 2 Big Bolt anchor.
Pitch 2 (155 ft, 5.10b) From the belay , climb up the left-most of the available cracks, to a tiring stance underneath the roof. It is wise to set pro, back under the roof, then work out to the lip, clip the bolt, back it up with pro over the roof, and then back clean the pieces, back under the roof. This process should give you maximal overhead protection when you pull the roof (crux) and a minimum of rope drag. Jam and / or stem up the long crack and set a welcome belay from a bolt anchor on the column top to the right. One fine , well protected pitch !!
Pitch 3 (50 ft, 5.8) Hand jam a splendid pitch to the next column top. Bolt anchor belay.
Pitch 4 (60 ft, 5.7) Traverse left directly from the belay ledge, then hand and fist jam the crack, turning the roofs on their left. Belay on the spacious West Face Ledge.
Pitch 5 ( 90 ft,5.8) From the West Ledges, climb the right most crack. This is offwidth / chimney climbing. Two steeper sections provide the difficulty, the second being the hardest. Natural chockstones and big pieces provide the protection. Belay at a large and comforting ledge, just past the second difficult section
Finish (65 ft, 5.5) Climb the obvious, wide left crack which wanders slightly left, to the summit.
Submitted by: jcinco on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 51360
fun but sustained 2nd pitch. My calves are still sore from the stemming
The first pitch had 1 somewhat tricky move in which there seemed to have no feet and you just smear and jam past it. The second pitch was freaking LONG!!! I had to back clean 3-4 times because I had 1 set of cams and there never seemed to be good stopper placements. The actual roof was easy and didnt seem hard for me at all. It was the long pitch after that which forced me to rest. The rest of the pitches were easy and had bigger ledges. As for the 5.8 chimney, I found it hard to protect and a little run out. Watch out for large loose rocks! My bro who was following me could not have climbed the chimney with his backpack, so I stopped on a ledge half way up and then dropped part of the rope down so that he could tie it and I could haul it up. I then left it on the ledge and finished the chimney. When he got there, we tied it again to the rope and I pulled it up. The last move on the chimney would be easiest if you went right, however I really liked staying in the chimney and trying to pull the last move. The top I think we started the wrong crack for the 5.4 but it was still easy. I ended up just right of the rappel anchors, which was Tugley's. We ran out of water, which made the trip not as triumphant at the end, because we rushed to get down to the parking lot. Overall, it was a good climb