A very good hand crack on the west face... pretty soft for the grade. Take the West Face Approach, the climb is three cracks left of Tulgey Wood.
Pitch 1 (40 ft. 5.7) Climb the wide crack to the hanging belay at a secure bolt anchor, 10 ft below a small roof. The first two pitches can be combined.
Pitch 2 (160ft, 5.11a) Continue up the crack. Turning the small roof is the technical crux of the pitch and is well protected with small stoppers (#3-#5) and the smallest TCU's. The amazing crack above is finger to hand size and offers secure jams, excellent protection and only one true rest, which is a small ledge off to the right, about halfway up. The hanging belay is from a secure, chained, 2 bolt anchor. Most people rap here.
Pitch 3. (150 ft.,5.10a) Continue up the crack on hand jams, similar to the 2nd pitch.There is a short but tricky off-width section, up high, so be sure to have a larger piece for protection. Your efforts will get you to the spacious West Face Ledge. This pitch has many more face holds than the second pitch. Tie in to the Big Bolt anchor. Continue via McCarthy West Face.
Submitted by: g on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 46409