Super climb! Take the West Face Approach. The route is on the left hand side of the Mystery Express column.
Pitch 1 (135 ft, 5.10a) Although the corner starts out hand sized, the issue is truly the finger / finger-tip section above it. The crux is about 15 feet below the anchor bolts. Remember to breath and check out the face to the right of the crack. Belay on the fine ledge atop the column from a Great 2-Big Bolt anchor. If you take many #3-#5 size stoppers, in addition to the hand and finger size protection, you will never have to lead past your ankles.
Pitch 2 (30ft, 5.10a) Layback, stem and jam the finger crack to a belay on the column top to your right. This has a 2 Big-Bolt anchor. The start of this pitch is strenuous and tricky, but it is harder still, higher up. Once through the initial difficulties, resist the urge to " Go for it". Several falls have occurred due to this thinking. "Decking-out" on the column top is quite possible and at least one set of ankles has been broken here. "Don't Just Smear, Put In Gear !!! "
Pitch 3 (165 ft, 5.9+) Climb the long, long, long fist crack to the spacious West Face Ledge and belay from a 2 Big Bolt anchor.
Continue on McCarthy West Face.
Submitted by: alorama on 2006-08-22
Route ID: 30995