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Tulgey Wood - 5.10a

Average Rating = 4.60/5 Average Rating : 4.60 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 176
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (11)
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Rock
Typical Tower rack- small (smaller than fingers) up to large fist size. 3-4 #4 cams for 3rd pitch
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.60/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

Super climb! Take the West Face Approach. The route is on the left hand side of the Mystery Express column. Pitch 1 (135 ft, 5.10a) Although the corner starts out hand sized, the issue is truly the finger / finger-tip section above it. The crux is about 15 feet below the anchor bolts. Remember to breath and check out the face to the right of the crack. Belay on the fine ledge atop the column from a Great 2-Big Bolt anchor. If you take many #3-#5 size stoppers, in addition to the hand and finger size protection, you will never have to lead past your ankles. Pitch 2 (30ft, 5.10a) Layback, stem and jam the finger crack to a belay on the column top to your right. This has a 2 Big-Bolt anchor. The start of this pitch is strenuous and tricky, but it is harder still, higher up. Once through the initial difficulties, resist the urge to " Go for it". Several falls have occurred due to this thinking. "Decking-out" on the column top is quite possible and at least one set of ankles has been broken here. "Don't Just Smear, Put In Gear !!! " Pitch 3 (165 ft, 5.9+) Climb the long, long, long fist crack to the spacious West Face Ledge and belay from a 2 Big Bolt anchor. Continue on McCarthy West Face.

Submitted by: alorama on 2006-08-22
Views: 598
Route ID: 30995

11 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stevecurtis on 2012-09-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars nice

After doing Mr clean to the top, we just did the first two. Very hard for 10A-call it 10D

Added: 2012-10-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Tulgey Wood

Like most modern rock wienies, we only did the first two pitches. That short little thing is tough! Pitch three looks like it will take an infinite amount of 4-6 camalots.

Added: 2010-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cyfairrockhound on 2010-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars interesting

Not sure where this thing gets its reputation, but its stellar thin hands to awkward chimney like jamming to the unusual finishing moves

Added: 2010-07-20

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: km on 2007-05-20 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars yes

This is a great route. We did this and finished on Mccarthy's west face. A number four camalot might have been nice for the second pitch but you can get by fine on #3s.

Added: 2007-06-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: z_k on 2007-05-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What great heights

The first pitch is a little bitch, the second could ronson on the belayers johnson.

Added: 2007-06-02

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