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Lucille - 5.13a

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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This notorius route (visible in the photograph above) is one of, if not the hardest offwidth in the world. Approach via Best of The Blues. Then you start up the monster. Go up into the cave, then follow the roof crack until the lip. Do some hard (12+ ish) chimney moves to get into the offwidth and thrutch to the recently installed anchor bolts. Belay above the bolts with gear (otherwise the second gets to deal with the rope in the face as they finish the final offwidth) and rappel from the bolts when finished. You need a 60 meter rope (or two fifties) to rap from the top. Likewise if you're going to TR it. The walk to the top is a real bear, and not worth it unless you really want to dance with the pretty lady

Submitted by: petsfed on 2004-04-29
Views: 985
Route ID: 38862

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1 Ascent Recorded

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Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: j_from_the_307 on 2003-07-31 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Date #1: TR: just wanted to get on it and see just how impossible it is. Thrutched forever on the crux move of Best of the Blues. Finally got through that and found surprisingly easy climbing all the way out the roof to the crux. Tried a few different things on the crux, got nowhere.<br>
Date #2: Finished hang-dog style on toprope. Still got worked pretty good by Best of the Blues. Lucy took me for one hell of a ride... got the scars to prove it. <br>
Date #3: Best of the Blues went down with a lot less effort this time. Pulled through the crux (barely, 0% style, 100% thrutch), now I just have to figure out how to turn around.

Witnessed by: petsfed
Added: 2003-07-31