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Devils Tower

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About Devils Tower:

Climbers from all over flock to this odd granite-like (phonolite porphyry) thing that juts more than 700 feet over the northern trailings of the Black Hills. Crack climbing is the norm here, so bring your rack, and have your buddy bring his/hers as well; you'll need lots of gear. The Tower is crack climbing at a world-class level and has everything from finger and hand cracks, chimneys and the dreaded offwidth. A handfull of bolted routes exist, mostly rated 5.10 and up. From the summit there are two primary rappels (two ropes). The Durrance raps go from the top of Bailey Direct down to the top of the Chockstone Crack. The raps then head down to the right of Durrance. Do not rap Durrance itself. The Meadows Rappels go from the middle cairn at the summit. This takes you to the Meadows.Walk to the left edge of the Meadows, (going below the tunnel tht is formed by a column leaning against the main wall), and scramble down through boulders to find the next set of Rap Anchors (its a little tricky, but there should be no hard climbing). Three raps from there, in a plumb line, will find You on the ground !!... The El Cracko Rappels are also a good option for rapping from the Meadows and can be done with a single line (but involves a hanging stance if done that way). This descent to East Ledges can also be accomplished in two raps, if You have two ropes. No hanging stance is involved, then. El Cracko raps follow Extention/Exit US, just to the right of the El Cracko.
Approach:
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude: 44.59188, -104.71465
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Granite
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect:

Routes

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SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Blotter is my Spotter (4) 5.7 A3+ 1
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Dancing With The Devils After Dark (1) 5.8 A3+ 2
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Deadwood Express (1) 5.10a A2 0
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Heatwave 5.10a A3 0
Average Rating = 0.00/5 Late for Dinner 5.7 A2+ 0
Average Rating = 5.00/5 Livin' The Dream (1) 5.11b 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Avalon 5.11d 1
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Bittersweet 5.10c 1
0 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Bloodguard 5.11d 2
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Brokedown Palace 5.12a 1
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Carl's Face 5.10c 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Dead Point 5.11b 2
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Devils tower Bouldering (1) V3 0
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Double Feature 5.11d 1
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Extension 5.11a 1
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Fourplay 5.11c 1
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Friend of the Devil (1) 5.8 A2+ 0
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Lack of Enthusiasm 5.11a 1
0 Average Rating = 3.20/5 Man Without a Planet 5.10a 5
0 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Park Politics 5.11b 1
0 Average Rating = 4.50/5 psychic turbulance 5.11b 2
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Roach Addiction 5.7 1
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 rocksuckers 5.11d 0
0 Average Rating = 4.43/5 Soler Eclipse 5.11b 7
0 Average Rating = 0.00/5 They Killed Kenny-You bastards A1 0
0 Average Rating = 3.00/5 Way Layed 5.11b 1
1 Average Rating = 3.80/5 California Dreaming 5.11b 6
1 Average Rating = 4.18/5 Durrance Route (15) 5.7 132
1 Average Rating = 0.00/5 La Vaca Solitaria 5.11a 1
1 Average Rating = 4.50/5 McCarthy West Face 5.11c 5
1 Average Rating = 3.67/5 McCarthy West Face Hong Variation 5.11b 5
1 Average Rating = 3.33/5 Pseudo Wiessner 4
1 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Spiney Norman 5.11c 1
2 Average Rating = 4.75/5 Bailey Direct Finish to Durrance Route 5.6 21
18 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Fritz's Fantasy 5.10b 8
36 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Bon Homme Variation (1) 5.8 18
44 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Walt Bailey Memorial (2) 5.9 22
50 Average Rating = 4.67/5 Hollywood and Vine 5.10c 14
52 Average Rating = 4.83/5 Soler 5.9 45
54 Average Rating = 3.50/5 TAD (1) 5.7 21
55 Average Rating = 4.29/5 El Cracko Diablo (3) 5.8 50
65 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Dusk in Dogtown 5.10c 2
78 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Casper College 5.10d 7
80 Average Rating = 4.33/5 Burning Daylight 5.10b 9
82 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Belle Fourche Buttress 5.10b 8
87 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Stepping Out of Flatland 5.11b 1
89 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Skinny Puppy 5.10c 1
99 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Soaring 5.10d 0
105 Average Rating = 4.50/5 Assembly Line (2) 5.9 24
107 Average Rating = 4.43/5 New Wave 5.10a 27
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Topo Images

Friend of the Devil
No route specified McCarthy West Face Variant

Most Recent Video

El Cracko Diablo

Forum Discussions (1 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Durance Route Pitons climbingaggie03 8 May 04 2008, 7:16 PM