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Devils Tower

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About Devils Tower:

Climbers from all over flock to this odd granite-like (phonolite porphyry) thing that juts more than 700 feet over the northern trailings of the Black Hills. Crack climbing is the norm here, so bring your rack, and have your buddy bring his/hers as well; you'll need lots of gear. The Tower is crack climbing at a world-class level and has everything from finger and hand cracks, chimneys and the dreaded offwidth. A handfull of bolted routes exist, mostly rated 5.10 and up. From the summit there are two primary rappels (two ropes). The Durrance raps go from the top of Bailey Direct down to the top of the Chockstone Crack. The raps then head down to the right of Durrance. Do not rap Durrance itself. The Meadows Rappels go from the middle cairn at the summit. This takes you to the Meadows.Walk to the left edge of the Meadows, (going below the tunnel tht is formed by a column leaning against the main wall), and scramble down through boulders to find the next set of Rap Anchors (its a little tricky, but there should be no hard climbing). Three raps from there, in a plumb line, will find You on the ground !!... The El Cracko Rappels are also a good option for rapping from the Meadows and can be done with a single line (but involves a hanging stance if done that way). This descent to East Ledges can also be accomplished in two raps, if You have two ropes. No hanging stance is involved, then. El Cracko raps follow Extention/Exit US, just to the right of the El Cracko.
Approach:
Approach Time:
Latitude, Longitude: 44.59188, -104.71465
Access Issues:
Rock Type: Granite
Type of Climbing: Trad
Sun Aspect:

Routes

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SequenceSequence numbers indicate the left (L) to right (R) order of the routes. Rating Route Difficulty Ascents
109 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Broken Tree 5.10b 14
110 Average Rating = 3.80/5 Everlasting 5.11b 9
112 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Birthday Boy 5.7 3
113 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Back to Montana 5.10d 6
114 Average Rating = 3.67/5 Mystic and the Mulchers 5.8 8
119 Average Rating = 4.75/5 McCarthy North Face 5.11a 11
132 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Carol's Crack 5.11a 8
137 Average Rating = 5.00/5 One Way Sunset 5.10c 7
142 Average Rating = 3.67/5 Fractal (1) 5.10a 8
143 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Refractal 5.12a 2
172 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Mr. Clean 5.11a 9
175 Average Rating = 4.00/5 A bridge to far (1) 5.11d 3
176 Average Rating = 4.60/5 Tulgey Wood 5.10a 11
177 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Mystery Express 5.13a 1
178 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Way Layed 5.11a 5
180 Average Rating = 4.67/5 McCarthy West Face Variant (1) 5.10b 6
182 Average Rating = 4.82/5 El Matador (5) 5.10d 31
187 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Billy Bear Cranks the Rad 5.12c 2
195 Average Rating = 4.50/5 Direct Southwest (1) 5.11b 8
196 Average Rating = 4.00/5 Rangers are People Too 5.9 7
200 Average Rating = 0.00/5 Butterfingers A2 0
202 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Blade Runner A3+ 1
238 Average Rating = 5.00/5 Tintin Does Dougnuts 5.9 7
240 Average Rating = 3.00/5 lakota 5.11a 6
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Topo Images

Friend of the Devil
No route specified McCarthy West Face Variant

Most Recent Video

El Cracko Diablo

Forum Discussions (1 posts)

  Subject Author Replies Last Post
With Replies Durance Route Pitons climbingaggie03 8 May 04 2008, 7:16 PM