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East Face, Left Side Cracks - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
Good pro with a normal trad rack
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


This route follows low-angle cracks and corners directly up the far left side of Pingora's East Face, just right of the gully that separates the east face from the southwest shoulder. Where the wall steepens, you can continue up to the summit with a rightward traverse (5.7) into a steep corner, or can traverse left (3rd class) over to the southwest shoulder and descend from there as for the South Buttress.

Descent Options:

Traverse off at mid-point to South Buttress walk-off, or continue to summit and rappell the South Buttress rap route, then walk off.

Submitted by: dlTOm on 2008-01-19
Views: 1154
Route ID: 91820

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dlTOm on 1997-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great long 5.7 route!

My third climb in the winds--a great way to summit Pingora, much more satisfying than the South Buttress route, though not as spectacular as the NE Face.

Much of the climb goes at 5.5-5.6, and if you go all the way to the summit, it makes for a long pleasant day at an easy grade. A wonderful way to break into leading longer routes, and from what I've seen on my 2 ascents, it's not crowded as the other Pingora routes can be. Also, if the weather is iffy or the upper headwall is too steep and intimidating (and after 1000 feet of pleasant low-angle cracks, it WILL look intimidating, though it's not bad at maybe 5.7+), it's easy to move left for a walk-off descent. If you're not quite up for the Northeast Face 5.8, this is a great way to climb a long route that ends on a real summit. Enjoy!

Added: 2008-01-19