Skip to Content

South Buttress - 5.6

Average Rating = 4.33/5 Average Rating : 4.33 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
Trad gear. Fist size and smaller cams, stoppers, etc.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.25/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.75/5

Description:

3 5.6 pitches with a couple of harder moves thrown in. Huge belay ledges. The approach is normally done by hiking up the south shoulder, on a mildy exposed trail. Alternately, you can climb 2 easy pitches up to the top of the south shoudler. The three pitches have many variations, from 5.6 to 5.8+ The rock is solid, takes pro well, and the exposure is minimized by the big ledges. The summit has plenty of room to spread out and relax. The rappels down are straightforward, and can even be done with one rope. This is a popular peak, with several high quality routes up it, so it's not uncommon to run into other parties.

Submitted by: wyoclimber on 2002-09-03
Views: 1644
Route ID: 23200

Most Recent Photos

13 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 13 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: nkane on 2011-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars another year...

another bail below the k cracks due to shitty weather which cleared as soon as it was too late to go back.

Added: 2011-08-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2010-08-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route, incredible view.

Fun climbing, especially the K-cracks variation, which are handcracks.

Added: 2011-04-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dlTOm on 1997-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars good intro Cirque climb

A good first climb in the Cirque after hiking in the day before. Short pitches, but the rock is good and the approach is cool in itself. Definitely take the K crack finish--this is a nice handcrack, with good pro, and I'd say closer to 5.7 than 5.8.

Added: 2008-01-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rad_crux on 2005-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars -

The 5.8 variation was the best part of this route. Wanted to do Wolf's head that day too, but it started snowing like crazy

Added: 2008-01-14

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1998-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars No comment

No comment

Added: 2007-04-26

... Read all 13 ascent notes