Guide's Wall - 5.8 popular

A fine route but not the caliber expected given its inclusion in Richard DuMais' "Great American Rock Climbs." Got hopelessly jammed up behind a party of 4 (wtf?) to do the reportedly classic 5.9+ finger crack on the fifth pitch. It wasn't worth the wait but that section's reputation was the primary factor in route selection that day.

Nice climb, really not sustained and nice.
We did the left 5.10c variation for the last pitch, which is hard to protect, but not that hard. Again, not really sustained... but still nice !

When I climbed this route 33 years ago I remember a whole bunch of people backed up on the crux pitch. I also remember a climber in another in another party that was at least 60 years old. I was very impatient and he seemed to be very nervous. In 1991 the last time that I live in Jackson my landlord boss a surgeon at the hospital in Jackson fell off the crux all the way down to the belay spot and lived. I got to meet the surgon(he was old) because I had done a little work for him. Man was he fuck up. My land lord was really bummed out because she was never was going to get a job again that payed as much as she made working for the surgon

Good warm up.

Greg Carter from texas and vicente planelles (rc.com name Tristan) from salt lake city swapped leads (sometimes more than once per pitch) to complete this awesome adventure. Vicente was climbing this for the second time (first with Alpinerocket), and elected to do the 5.9+ variation of pitch 5, and to complete the pitch by leading the 10b.c roof. the roof is very very well protected, although once over the roof the climbing becomes a bit thin. Make sure pro under the roof will not cause rope drag, as it will make it very difficult to go through te thin section. Once you overcome the main roof, you will be under another, smaller roof, which you should not climb but just follow up and left and traverse a corner to the left to rejoin the regular route. There is a good cam placement (0.4 inch) right befor you turn the corner, so make sure you place pro as the traverse (about 8 ft.) is unprotected. Highly recommended variation, very exposed.