Amazing climb; sustained at the grade, awesome exposure, perfect rock, and varied climbing. One of the best alpine routes I've done. The approach is long, but you can easily do the route car to car in a day. Some exposed fourth class gets you up to the base of the arete. We linked the first two pitches with a 70m rope. The route stays near the arete the entire way. Once on top just head West to the second gully on the left. One 50 foot rappel and the rest is easy scrambling back to the base.
Submitted by: pt on 2004-09-29
Route ID: 59323
This is a great ridge climb that actually stays pretty close to the crest. We did some of the 5.9 variations and they're a lot of fun although they felt a little harder than 5.9. We both agreed that this is probably the best long moderate we'd ever done. If it was easily accessible it'd be more popular than the Bastille Crack in my opinion.
The summit of Dissapointment is an added bonus. The views are awesome. Saw a team on the Red Sentinel which also looks like a cool little tower. Hard work getting there though.
The descent is hard to find, sketchy, and loose. There are several rappels near the end but getting too them involves some steep scree scrambling near steep drops. We didn't rope up but it might not have been a bad idea.