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Irenes Arete - 5.8

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.86/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.86/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Amazing climb; sustained at the grade, awesome exposure, perfect rock, and varied climbing. One of the best alpine routes I've done. The approach is long, but you can easily do the route car to car in a day. Some exposed fourth class gets you up to the base of the arete. We linked the first two pitches with a 70m rope. The route stays near the arete the entire way. Once on top just head West to the second gully on the left. One 50 foot rappel and the rest is easy scrambling back to the base.

Submitted by: pt on 2004-09-29
Views: 1559
Route ID: 59323

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15 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: jmeizis on 2009-09-06 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome Ridge

This is a great ridge climb that actually stays pretty close to the crest. We did some of the 5.9 variations and they're a lot of fun although they felt a little harder than 5.9. We both agreed that this is probably the best long moderate we'd ever done. If it was easily accessible it'd be more popular than the Bastille Crack in my opinion.

The summit of Dissapointment is an added bonus. The views are awesome. Saw a team on the Red Sentinel which also looks like a cool little tower. Hard work getting there though.

The descent is hard to find, sketchy, and loose. There are several rappels near the end but getting too them involves some steep scree scrambling near steep drops. We didn't rope up but it might not have been a bad idea.

Added: 2009-09-15

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: elizaclimb on 2009-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Irenes arete

Followed julia up this awesome route. We did two pitches with a 5.9 variation. This climb is amazing. Perhaps the best!

Added: 2009-08-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: brizza on 2008-08-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Irenes Arete

One of the sickest climbs Ive ever done. Climbed with Liz, she took the odd pitches, I took the evens. So sustained at 5.8 - loved it.

Added: 2008-08-31

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-08-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars _

SW Gully descent was the sketchiest part of the climb but we were camped at the Meadows so it seemed the most reasonable. Nevertheless, I would probably opt for a different option next time.

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: keg5066 on 2008-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great line and exposure

do the direct variation at the top. 5.10 but well protected

Added: 2008-08-03

... Read all 15 ascent notes