Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
July 11, 1950 Robert Merriam, Richard Pownall, Michael Brewer, Leigh Ortenburger
large cams on p1 & small nuts on p2
From Garnet Canyon take the large talus couloir next to the west face of Disappointment Peak to reach the notch to the east of the pinnacle. Start up the obvious jam crack for 60ft to a delicate friction traverse right, to the northeast corner. Belay the next pitch from this corner. Face climb out onto the edge of the sheer north face up a secure position behind a flake. Go a cheval up the sharp ridge to the small summit. Was also known as Glencoe Spire.
2 ropes are required for the rappel to the northwest col.
Submitted by: elizaclimb on 2009-08-20
Route ID: 101386
One of the coolest climbs anywhere! It has awesome moves. Super exposed! Awesome face climbing. The rap is free-hanging with big air below. I can't imagine hiking up to do this climb only but if you are guided by JHMG, since it's so close to their high camp, I highly recommend.