I definitely know why this route is consider one of the top 50 in the US. It has everything from chimneys to aretes to face climbing and dehedrals. Spectacular route! and a lot of fun. The descent is a lovely little pain in the butt, but manageable. The route can be done with just one 60m rope, but the last repel will use almost the whole length.
Submitted by: redeemed6_12 on 2007-11-04
Last Modified: 2011-05-19
Route ID: 90428
Probably one of the most enjoyable alpine climbs I've done! Exceptional scenery, just about perfect rock, & really fun climbing.
Belayed 2 pitches on the upper, did the lower belayed. Crux, I'd say, is the Black Wall (& route-finding up it). Climbed the mountain in my 5.10 Exum Guides, fittingly :)
When topping out on the Upper Exum (before climbing to the top of the actual summit pinnacle), look around for the start of the rap' station- if you see others, make a mental note of where it starts for the descent.