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Owen-Spalding Route - 5.4 popular

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (42)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.42/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

From the Lower Saddle, hike north toward the obvious black dike. The trail will split in a couple of places. Stay left and end up on the left (west) side of the dike. A tall feature called The Needle will greet you just past the dike. Engage in class 3 for short distance until reaching a slight headwall and a large chockstone chimney to the right. Climb slabby terrain for 100 ft to the right until reaching a ledge. The next obstacle is the Eye-of-the-Needle, which is a tunnel-like opening in the rock. Continue through the Eye, then traverse north along a ledge until reaching a large boulder which you must climb around with a little exposure. Head up into the couloir and follow the climber's trail to the Upper Saddle. At the Upper Saddle, the Enclosure will be to the left, and the west face of the Grand will be on the right. At the Upper Saddle, the entire west face and the bottom of the OS route will come into view. Take a minute and note features and the route. Also, look behind you and remember which of the two couloirs were used in the ascent. You will want to use the center couloir for your descent. The westerly couloir is the Idaho Express and is easily mistaken for the descent route. From the Upper Saddle, the object is to traverse north across the bottom of the west face before ascending up to the summit block. The standard OS does the complete traverse, but there are several cracks along the way for variations of the route including the Collins-Hume (5.11) and the Wittich Crack (5.6). Climbers generally rope up before beginning the traverse. Begin the traverse with the Belly Roll pitch. This is an easy section, but you will want to be roped due to the exposure. Afterward, the Crawl Pitch is done by doing a hand traverse over fantastic exposure. The Crawl Pitch shortly ends with the Double Chimney where the upward ascent to the summit block continues. This chimney (5.5) climbs about 20 feet to a large ledge. From the ledge, look directly up and right into the obvious Owen Chimney. From here and to the extreme right (south) the OS Original Route continues along The Catwalk slabs. Either ascend the Owen Chimney or go to the right along the Catwalk Slabs. Either way will put you on a large ledge below the Sargeants Chimney. The Owen Chimney (5.5) usually contains some degree of ice. Warmer years may yield less, but the right-hand side of the chimney is almost always in shade and is icy. Good pro can be found in the Owen Chimney which is approximately 80 ft. Exit the chimney on a good belay ledge with great anchor points. After exit, look for the large chimney system to the left (east). This is the Sargent's Chimney and is about 80 ft. Also, look to the right and locate the rappel station for your eventual rappel to the upper saddle. Continue up the Sargents Chimney and look for rap slings at the top. After the chimney, go left (north) and traverse along a narrow ledge and slab. At the end of slab, go right (south) until reaching the obvious class 3 blocky terrain to the summit. Descent: From the summit, descend the blocky terrain. Go right (north) until intercepting the slabs, then go south along the slab until reaching the top of Sargent's Chimney and the rap station. Rap to near the top of the Owen Chimney. Go left (south) and look for the slings and rap station which will get you back to the Upper Saddle. The rappel to the Upper Saddle is 120 ft. Most use two ropes; however, a tricky rappel with a single 60 meter dynamic rope is possible if done correctly. First, tie knots on the ends your rappel rope. Next, throw your rope to the rappeler's right (south) of the rappel station (or....to your left when facing out over the cliff). The bottom of the rappel has a significant down-slope to the north, so if you throw your rope to the south, a 60 meter rope will reach the bottom with rope stretch. Stay to the south during your rappel. Update: A new rappel station was installed 50M North of the standard rappel station in Aug '04. This will surely alleviate congestion at the standard station, but definitely requires 2 ropes. At the Upper Saddle, head for the descent couloir taking care not to use the westerly Idaho Express couloir by mistake. A faint climbers trail and occasional cairns will help guide the way. Retrace your route to the Lower Saddle.

Submitted by: alan_ellis on 2005-02-11
Views: 10399
Route ID: 18599

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42 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: doctor_jimmy on 2014-08-03 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars First Alpine Route

First alpine route. The approach got me good. Awesome views and a great experience.

Added: 2014-08-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: falconeagle10 on 2013-07-28 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Awesome climb

skipped the v-pitch. variation to left

Added: 2014-02-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jmeizis on 2013-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Weird Route

None of the features except for the roll and crawl are very obvious. Basically soloed it and dragged a rope so a friend could follow.

Added: 2013-08-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: maowcakes on 2013-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars An epic hike.

Changing plans had us planning a car-to-car, then camping, then our permits were pulled... then last minute car-to-car. Ended up being a LONG 18 hr day, but an awesome one. Pinky G's pizza afterward hit the spot. Got a little off trail at a wrong fork at the Meadows (don't actually go IN there). Great moment.

Added: 2013-08-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: boss on 2010-09-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Grand Teton OS

Great weather with a little bit of ice mixed in. Fantastic route.

Added: 2012-11-19

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