The rating is AI2/3, 5.4. From the morain below the Lower Saddle, climb the glacier. Above the crevasse, the glacier splits. Take the right fork up to join the east ridge. Follow the easy ridge to the summit. For most of the season, the glacier is a mellow snow climb. But in the early fall it is a great ice climb, crossing the crevasse is relatively easy and the upper section gets quite steep. The glacier is a bigger than it looks, lots of people finish the route in the dark. Descend the southwest couloir.
Submitted by: agrauch on 2002-05-20
Route ID: 17397
It was snowier for us. There was little rock, and not any spots for gear. There are two summits on the middle teton. The book we had didn't mention anything about the route after attaining the saddle above the moraine, when we got there, the ridge to the summit proved to be much more difficult than we thought given the conditions. The snow was very soft and mushy, up to our knees every step. There was a rock band that had to be crossed in the middle of the snow, and there was little protection available. We chose a route leading left or south, and we ended up on the south summit. Fun but scary because of the possibility of the snow ripping out for a long slide.
Witnessed by: Don Despain, Bethany Lopez