This is a classic route to the 12,804 foot summit. It can be done in a day, or linked with the South Teton, usually after spending the night and getting an early start. The snow can be steep in early season, when it is best to climb to avoid talus and choss.
Submitted by: hollyclimber on 2006-03-08
Route ID: 19868
Camped overnight at the Meadows. Climbed the next morning with two friends new to the Tetons. Ice axe is essential. Several Snow fields must climbed in the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the Middle/South saddle. These snowfields will most likely be frozen before sunrise so crampons are not a bad idea. Once in the couloir the scrambling is easy but fun. Great climb for those new to the mountains.
15 hours from my cabin and back...I lived in front of the Climbers Ranch so we took a bushwack trail for some of it. There was 6 of us total after we picked up several friends camping at the Meadows. (Only 3 of us did this in the 15 hour day) We made it to the Upper Saddle and got golf ball to baseball size hail...twice! But we were too close to the summit to quit. We made it, frozen and tired. We spent only 10 minutes on the summit taking pictures because we saw another storm coming in from Idaho. Jogged down most of the trail and made it home just before dark. Best day damn of my life!!!