Skip to Content

SW Couloir Middle Teton - 5.3 popular

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (23)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
3rd class, ice axe in early season.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.2 M1
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.12/5
  Rock Quality 3.38/5
  Scenery 4.62/5
  Fun Factor 4.38/5

Description:

This is a classic route to the 12,804 foot summit. It can be done in a day, or linked with the South Teton, usually after spending the night and getting an early start. The snow can be steep in early season, when it is best to climb to avoid talus and choss.

Submitted by: hollyclimber on 2006-03-08
Views: 1857
Route ID: 19868

Most Recent Photos

23 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 23 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3 PD
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: NandaDevi15 on 2010-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Early season fun

Great conditions early in the season made this climb a blast, crampons and ice ax were a must, no rope required.

Added: 2010-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: jacoby123 on 2009-04-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars .

go all the way to the saddle to find the colour, best when there's still snow in it. good intro the alpine ascents

Added: 2009-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty M1
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mreed12 on 2008-08-13 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Good day of scrambling

Couple snow fields and large boulder scrambling finished with summit climb with lots of talus.

Added: 2008-11-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.1 F
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: climber43 on 2007-07-20 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars fun

Camped overnight at the Meadows. Climbed the next morning with two friends new to the Tetons. Ice axe is essential. Several Snow fields must climbed in the south fork of Garnet Canyon to reach the Middle/South saddle. These snowfields will most likely be frozen before sunrise so crampons are not a bad idea. Once in the couloir the scrambling is easy but fun. Great climb for those new to the mountains.

Added: 2008-10-07

Ratings
  Difficulty M1
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: RockMySocks on 2007-09-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Several Storms

15 hours from my cabin and back...I lived in front of the Climbers Ranch so we took a bushwack trail for some of it. There was 6 of us total after we picked up several friends camping at the Meadows. (Only 3 of us did this in the 15 hour day) We made it to the Upper Saddle and got golf ball to baseball size hail...twice! But we were too close to the summit to quit. We made it, frozen and tired. We spent only 10 minutes on the summit taking pictures because we saw another storm coming in from Idaho. Jogged down most of the trail and made it home just before dark. Best day damn of my life!!!

Added: 2008-05-06

... Read all 23 ascent notes