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Purge The System - WI3

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Travis Hannon and John Lovell
Ice screws and spectres.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This route is the only route that has been done in this area. There are others that could be attempted, with the right weather. Park as described, at the bridge right before Big Game Campground. Find a place to cross the river, after dodging through the brush. This climb sits in a small ampitheatre, and is fairly aesthetic. Good climbing, but it does receive a fair amount of sun, hence, it gets baked out and is very dry and was extremely brittle when we did it. The second pitch is well up above the first, and is not worth the hike.

Descent Options:

Rappel the first pitch by walking to the tree on climbers right. If in doubt as to whether you can get to the tree, since it is kind of out of the way, V-thread rappel the ice.

Submitted by: boulderinemt on 2008-01-21
Views: 532
Route ID: 91874

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty WI3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boulderinemt on 2007-12-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars The first ascent

This is a very nice climb that we found, after snooping around the North Fork Highway looking for some ice to take some beginners on. We were just doing recon, and decided to have a run at this first ascent. It was a blustery cold day, probably around 10 degrees, in the minus with the wind chill factor. Travis led, and the ice was extremely brittle. I followed, and broke it down into about a runnel of 2 feet wide for about ten feet. The following week, this had completely melted out, and is about a six foot mixed section at the moment. Good, aesthetic climb, worth the 30 minute hike. Go Climb!

Added: 2008-01-21