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Clive and the Commanche - WI4 M3

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Travis Hannon and John Lovell
Ice Mixed
Slinging trees, runout mixed climbing, and ice screws
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI4 M3
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


This is a gem I found while hiking around Mummy Joe Caves. I can't give the specific drainage yet, since there is still more to do, but this by far is the most aesthetic line. Hike 45 minutes, and this will be on the right. An unformed (for first ascent) curtain is turned by climbing the right side tree (no crampons, please) and gaining a ledge of about 15 feet. Travis led this pitch by literally breaking up the rock with axes into workable holds. Slinging the tree is the only option for protection, and a fall from the ledge would result in serious injury. Once on ice, it turns to WI4 conditions for about 65 feet. Beautiful Climb.

Descent Options:

Rappel from old rotten log in drainage, or ice V-thread. Needs two sixty meter ropes.

Submitted by: boulderinemt on 2008-01-21
Views: 513
Route ID: 91876

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1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty WI4 M3
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: boulderinemt on 2008-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Clive and the Commanche FA

Beautiful climb! The curtain was unclimbable when we did the ascent. We spent three or four hours trying to figure out how to bypass it. We looked at the tree, then brought a log up and tried to set it up to climb, then went back to the tree, then tried wacking the ice. Travis finally gave it, and did a beautiful lead by climbing up the tree, then running it out on the rock to the ice. Amazing climb in a very cool, almost southern Utah feeling slot canyon. It was very spooky, I have never been that scared that something bad was immenent. If you fall on the mixed portion, you are doing one of two things. Either hitting the tree, or hitting the curtain. By the end, if you can't sink a tool, ground fall is possible. Be safe, have fun, and go climb!

Added: 2008-01-21