Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
Todd Cozzens/Stan Price
Many people will do the first and second pitch as one. It can be done with a sixty meter rope, but I prefer to climb the first curtain, set a screw belay, then have a go at the second. The first pitch is a vertical curtain, which can be huge and plastic, wet and snowcone, or hard and brittle, just depending on the day. The second pitch is another fairly easy curtain. The third is a full pitch, a curtain leading up to a small ledge, into a steep pillar. The top of the third pitch is usually the first to melt out during a sunny day. The top of the third narrows down and can be somewhat thin. I have not personally been beyond the third, so I won't describe from above here.
Climbed the first 4 pitches on styrofoam ice. of those, the 3rd pitch was the hardest, going at WI4. There was a fracture running across the pillar near the top, and my partner sent some bigass chunks of ice falling. The 4th offered about 100' of sustained WI3 climbing. Hiked up and took a look at My Only Valentine(5th pitch) and the Carotid Artery, but decided to save it for another day. During the traverse for the walkoff, a good sized boulder came smoking down from up high and came to rest at the base of the 4th pitch, right where we would've been if we'd chosen the much faster option of rapping the route. There were already V-threads in place on each pitch. The South Fork never fails to make for a memorable day of climbing.