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Broken Hearts - WI5

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Ice
PG13
7
Ice Screws
656
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 1.67/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Many people will do the first and second pitch as one. It can be done with a sixty meter rope, but I prefer to climb the first curtain, set a screw belay, then have a go at the second. The first pitch is a vertical curtain, which can be huge and plastic, wet and snowcone, or hard and brittle, just depending on the day. The second pitch is another fairly easy curtain. The third is a full pitch, a curtain leading up to a small ledge, into a steep pillar. The top of the third pitch is usually the first to melt out during a sunny day. The top of the third narrows down and can be somewhat thin. I have not personally been beyond the third, so I won't describe from above here.

Descent Options:

Decent with v-threads.

Submitted by: southforkclimber on 2008-12-26
Views: 496
Route ID: 97462

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty WI3
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: grizzlyjane223 on 2013-02-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cody Ice Festival

I climbed the 1st pitch to do the EVAC/Rescue Class. The ice was medium soft that day.

Added: 2013-03-14

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: EvilMonkey on 2010-02-26 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Broken Hearts (1st 4 Pitches)

Climbed the first 4 pitches on styrofoam ice. of those, the 3rd pitch was the hardest, going at WI4. There was a fracture running across the pillar near the top, and my partner sent some bigass chunks of ice falling. The 4th offered about 100' of sustained WI3 climbing. Hiked up and took a look at My Only Valentine(5th pitch) and the Carotid Artery, but decided to save it for another day. During the traverse for the walkoff, a good sized boulder came smoking down from up high and came to rest at the base of the 4th pitch, right where we would've been if we'd chosen the much faster option of rapping the route. There were already V-threads in place on each pitch. The South Fork never fails to make for a memorable day of climbing.

Added: 2010-12-11

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ktboundary on 2009-01-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Superb!

Climbed to the 5th, then ran out of light. Amazing!

Added: 2009-01-28

Ratings
  Difficulty WI4
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: southforkclimber on 2007-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Up to the base of the third

The top of the third pitch was melted out. Been up BH many, many times.

Added: 2008-12-31