Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Long, long forgotten
Screws, bolt anchors.
This route is in the drainage just to the left of Broken Hearts. Look at the first pitch of Broken Hearts, then look into the deep canyon to the left about a quarter mile. Start hiking up the side hill, on the right. Don't drop into the drainage until you are well up on the side hill, or else you will have to do some serious bouldering moves on the approach. There is a dead tree about halfway up the face that I use as a gauge of when to drop in. The tree marks the bottom of the first pitch, once you are in the drainage. The first pitch is a good, steep, albeit short curtain, leading to a two bolt anchor, somewhere on the side. Usually, in a fat year, these bolts are covered by ice, and will require a screw belay. The second pitch is a little ways up the drainage, and is a solo for most people. The third is also a solo, with the fourth, way up high, being the catch, a short, steep curtain. Daggers form above this climb every year, but haven't touched in the last ten years.
Rappel the route. V-threads are the norm for the top three routes. If you can find the bolts, and good luck on that, on the top of the first, use those, if not, the tree on climber's right can be used to rap. If you have a doubt about getting out to it, v
I have been up this many, many times, with the newbies. The hike absolutely sucks. It was my first lead, without my main climbing partner. Bolts on top of the first are usually buried under the ice. This is also my climbing partner's daughters first lead, on the upper slab pitches. Not bad for a 15 year old who doesn't climb that often. I solo'ed beside her and gave her support. She did really well. For that, this climb will always rate high with me.