Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
This route is the next route to the left of Broken Ribs. It comes in regularly, but is hit or miss. Continue up the road a bit, until you see the second pitch of the climb. Park here, well off the road. Hike straight up, once more not entering the drainage until you are well up the hill. Climb low angle ice to the base of the second pitch. The first is usually bypassed on the approach. This pitch offers some fairly steep curtain climbing, and can be very brittle in cold weather. It gets very little sun. Belay from screws or trees on the right. The third pitch goes up a shorter rolling gully. The fourth pitch is a short hike above this. I first climbed this during the -20 Waterfall Ice Festival in 2006, and have never been that cold in my life. There is no wind, but the sun never reaches in the drainage. It is a great climb in warmer weather, but a deep, dark cave when it is cold.
Rappel the route by v-threads. Once you get to the bottom of the seond, hike down the way you came.
This was the first climb I played on at the ice festival. The year it was -20. This thing sits in a cold, dark crevice that never gets sun. Not the best place to be. But I would rather be there than sitting at home.