Average Rating : 2.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Possibly the first climb in the South Fork.
Screws, or walk around to the tree to top rope.
This is probably one of the most climbed routes in the South Fork, for beginners. Right before Deer Creek Trailhead, look up right to a double tiered climb. This is Deer Creek Falls. Park at the trailhead, and follow a well established trail to the drainage. Following this trail will put you right at the base of the approach ice, which seems to go forever, until you get to the main pitch. There are two ways to protect this climb. One is to lead it, and one is to walk around and set a top rope. This is one of the very few easily top roped pitches in the Valley, hence it's popularity. To set a top rope, climb the approach pitches to the bottom of the main pitch. You will see a trail to the right, leading beyond a hole in the rock. Head beyond this, across a little chute, to a ridgeline. From there, walk straight up hill, until you can see you are beyond the second tier, find an easy way over, and go to the top. The tree on climber's left is usually the belay point, however, with sixty feet of good, strong cord, a boulder set farther back can be slung and used as an anchor. It takes sixty feet for a sixty meter rope to reach the ground, so make SURE you use enough. Most people will simply use the tree. The climb consists of two "pitches". The first roller, then the ledge, then the second roller. The top of the first can melt out quickly during a warm day, and this is usually the crux. Many a party has bent a pick trying to pull this, making it more than "just" a WI2. The second curtain is usually fat, however, lately, for some reason the top of the second has been thin, not allowing screws for an anchor on the climber's right side. Mixed routes have been done on either side, mostly on top rope, since the rock is terrible.
Pull ropes, and walk off to the right, following the same path taken to get to the walk around. Once you gain the ridge line, start meandering down hill, until you get to a scree field. This offers a quick descent by glissade on some of the trademark kitt
Fun little climb. Seemed harder than WI2, but that's how it goes. I hit it pretty early in the morning when the sun was just getting on the 2nd tier. It was way more plastic than the part in the shade, so you'd probably want to get on it early on clear days.