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Too Cold To Fire - WI4

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Route sequence (left to right):
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Carl Coy/ Todd Cozzens
Ice Screws, Bolt Anchor at the top of the second pitch.
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This climb is reached by hiking directly up Deer Creek proper. Look for a deep, hard to miss chimney on the right. This is Too Cold To Fire. The two approach pitches can vary greatly. Recently, they have been leadable in their own right, however in past years, it was an easy, if somewhat spooky, solo. Climb these two steps to the bottom of the main pitch. This pitch is often very large at the base, with somewhat of a platform about ten feet up. Wierd, bulbuous, steep ice, for about 20 meters leads to easier, off vertical ice. The crux is always the top, which sometimes has ice, but most of the time turns into the very definition of why we don't mix climb on the South Fork. Aim for a small tree on climber's right, there will be a two bolt anchor there, to belay the second up. A high quality route, with a very short approach. If Deer Creek is not froze, it becomes more of a chore, if it is froze, nine times out of ten, this forgotten little gem will be climbable.

Descent Options:

Rappel from bolts, downclimb and v-thread where needed.

Submitted by: southforkclimber on 2008-12-26
Views: 307
Route ID: 97466